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Fashion, Passion and History

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  • ›March 19, 2012

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    Yves Saint Laurent and Model Karen Mulder. Photo by: Helmut Newton


    All three of these are fundamentals needed in fashion photography. Yet these are often missed or overlooked by new photographers in the field or those fresh out of school. I’ll never forget my first photography class, we were asked to to give a reason why we decided to pursue fashion photography.  Many students couldn’t come up with a reason. The most common one was “oh fashion photography seems cool”, or “I get to shoot beautiful models and do whatever I want”. Needless to say after the first three weeks into our semester half the class dropped out after finding out that fashion photography isn’t all that meets the eye. A lot of hard work goes into making that ever so perfect image which master photographers make seem all too easy .



    Photo by: Helmut Newton



    To me it’s very important for young fashion photographers to be aware of the work of their predecessors and also study the impact that such work can have on our field today. Great artists and photographers often refer back to their mentors and famous images that helped shape their creative eye. Fashion is ever so changing and so is fashion photography,  many new photographers I talk to give me blank stares when I mention names such as Horst P. Horst, Avedon or Newton. It always baffles me when young photographers don’t know the work of such masters and the fact that their work helped shape the very field we all want to work in. Avedon brought movement to the pages of fashion magazines which were so posed and stiff before he came along and Helmut, well, Helmut brought out the kink and free spirit in everyday fashion. Being knowledgeable about such work and photographers in my opinion helps greatly in shaping and molding a brand new photographer. After all,  how can we move forward in a medium where everything has been done at least once already?


    Photo by: Paolo Riversi



    The historical aspect aside , fashion photographers should love fashion! Live it, love it, and dream about it. I mean why else would you want to be a fashion photographer? You can always find photographers such as Mario Testino and Patrick Demarchelier front row during fashion week. These photographers shoot countless fashion spreads and editorials, and they immerse themselves in every aspect of it and it shows in their work. Fashion photographers have to be aware of a lot of things; you’re photographing garments that need to grab the viewer’s attention, you need to know how to photograph them well and may even have to lend your eye in styling them to make an image. Even Paolo Roversi has occasionally styled his own editorials!  Obviously, a strong background in fashion is a must for this. It’s not something I wish on anyone, but there will always be one of those days where you need a stylist and the only person that can come through is you, so you better know how to put an outfit together !


    Mario Testino at Burberry Fashion Show. Photo by: Chris Jackson



    The point I’m trying to make here is that many new and upcoming photographers seem to lack a strong background in the history of and passion for fashion photography and it shows in their work. How else are you supposed to stand out in an industry where anyone who has access to a camera pretty much calls themselves a photographer?

    This post was written by William David Walsh who is a Fashion Photographer based in San Francisco.


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    20 COMMENTS

      chaunna michole

      March 5, 2012

      You hit the nail right on the head with this one. Understanding and studying fashion and its predecessors are SO important. Not only in aspects of being a photographer, but anyone working in the fashion INDUSTRY needs to know its history and what’s going on today.

      “The Fashion Book” — great little book full of everything and everyone you should know.

      Reply

      Valeria Duque

      March 5, 2012

      Couldn’t agree more!!! I’m stealing this text to share it, may i? (with due credit of course)
      Loved the length, loved the message, loved the writing and the images! Thanks for sharing!

      Reply

      admin

      March 5, 2012

      @Chaunna That’s a great book! Thanks for sharing it. Here’s a link to it on Amazon for those of you who are interested: http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Book-Editors-Phaidon-Press/dp/071483808X

      Reply

      Jackie Baes

      March 5, 2012

      I completely agree with you. I am so surprised when I meet emerging “Fashion” Photographers and their attention to detail in the clothes/accessories is just not there. When I point this out to them they look at me like I have 4 heads…. There are some emerging photographes that I met that are getting it and will become working fashion photographers but very few.

      Reply

      Maria T

      March 5, 2012

      Another
      Great Article Ms Rodwell :)

      Reply

      Tyler

      March 5, 2012

      Sooo good! I really like Jackie’s point about attention to detail, and William’s about knowing fashion and being able to put an outfit together… very important stuff.

      Reply

      khoo

      March 5, 2012

      Great Article. Indeed and does it not only apply to fashion but in other genre as well. Photographer need to be a mini expert in the topic they are shooting. Understand the form and the work will shine.

      Reply

      Tim

      March 5, 2012

      Thank you for the advice. New to fashion but not photography. Knowing where to focus my efforts in education is immensley useful. Well written brief by Mr. Walsh, if I read that correctly.

      Reply

      Tim

      March 6, 2012

      And even if you can’t get a seat there at FWNY with Mario, watching it live on YouTube is still an incredible way to experience it (also means fewer excuses for not knowing about the latest designers and their work that you are–or are hoping to–photograph).

      Reply

      Daniel

      March 7, 2012

      Well written article – something I have always felt strongly about.

      Reply

      Omar

      March 8, 2012

      I completely agree with each word that William has said. These days, pretty much everyone who has an SLR Camera calls himself a photographer. Without the passion, it just won’t last long. Very well written article. Thanks Melissa for facilitating this…
      XOXO

      Reply

      Victoria - Washington Boudoir Photographer

      March 9, 2012

      Very true and wise words, its very hard to know where your going in the industry if you don’t have an idea of where you came from.

      Reply

      Alan Langley

      March 10, 2012

      Great post and some very valid points. I am a wedding photographer and was recently offended when someone referred to me as a ‘fashion photographer’ – it prompted me to write this post:- http://doverdesign.co.uk/?p=3495

      Reply

      Yucel

      March 11, 2012

      Helmut really knows how to capture a moment…

      Reply

      Chad Currie

      April 6, 2012

      Don’t forget that Helmut Newton (one of my favorites) also introduced the very idea of voyeurism into the world of fashion photography. This is a style that everyone fashion photographer uses at some point or another. Other than that I love these articles and I completely agree. I truly understand how to move forward we must understand our background without living in it.

      Reply

      steffi

      April 14, 2012

      this is FASHION in all facettes! so great. the photo with yves is stunning

      Reply

      Felinda

      June 19, 2012

      Such wise words!!
      ♥

      Reply

      Surinder Singh

      August 19, 2012

      interesting -n- informative…

      Reply

      bruce

      August 22, 2012

      I ‘m a Chinese,and my English is very poor.It took me half an hour to understand your article.After read it,I’m very agree with the last word.-How else are you supposed to stand out in an industry where anyone who has access to a camera pretty much calls themselves a photographer?-Because I’m worked in shanghai as a fashion designer,I think I’m not a really designer now.thank you.

      Reply

      Martin Lyons

      January 29, 2013

      Fantastic thanks very much for sharing this!.

      Reply

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