Finding Inspiration in a Foreign Land while
Fighting Jet Lag, Culture Shock,
and Unpopularity
As I mentioned in earlier posts, I recently traveled to Dubai to teach a series of workshops. It was an amazing experience on many levels that was as rewarding as it was stressful. It truly tested my limits—as a photographer, as an artist, and as a person.
It tested my limits physically and psychologically, too—I have had jet lag for so long now that I’m going to have to give it a going-away party when it finally leaves. Dubai is a roughly 16-hour plane flight from Los Angeles, with a 12-hour time difference. 12 hours ahead. I hit the ground running when I arrived, and I didn’t have one day off the entire two weeks I was there—in addition to teaching workshops the first week, the second week I had to shoot three editorial assignments: Two for Harper’s Bazaar Arabia and an editorial assignment for Maniac magazine, the last of which I had no time off to prep or even come up with a concept. Not that I’m complaining, but it was difficult. No sleep doesn’t make for an easy temperament; plus, I had just gotten over a bout of walking pneumonia immediately before leaving for Dubai. The pressure to be creative in those circumstances while undergoing severe culture shock was brutal. But I made it through without too much damage.
I had some wonderful students in my classes. Some were blog readers, and it was a blast to finally meet some of my loyal followers. Here I was, halfway around the world and meeting people for the first time that I had been e-mailing and communicating with for over a year. And in Dubai! It was incredible.
Of course, Dubai is known for “incredible”: The tallest building in the world, the only six-star resort in the world, the only indoor ski resort in the world, the biggest mall in the world. To be honest, it all sort of reminded me of Las Vegas, but without the sin. As an L.A. native and a fairly extensive international traveler, I wasn’t eager to do the touristy things, though. I was more interested in seeing the traditional Arabic architecture and experiencing the local culture.
Watch the Trailer
Special Thanks to: Harvey Glen and Andrew Clemson at Alchemy Films Dubai
I met some extraordinary people in Dubai. A few stand out piercingly in my memory. One student who really made an impression on me was a girl named Hamdah. She was a local Arab girl who was in my first two-day workshop for intermediate students. She sat in the front row, and she was veiled. Her presence confronted me with something I’d been dreading: How I was going to get along in a society that—in my Western eyes, anyway—oppressed women. I’m about as feminist as you can get. I believe firmly in equal rights for women and being able to have a voice. I’ve been playing ball in a male-dominated industry (photography, not fashion per se) for a long time now, but this was different. So I was a bit nervous when I first arrived in Dubai. Can I admit that my initial reaction to seeing women veiled was a natural aversion? And there I was, on day one, perched on a desk in front of my students, and Hamdah sitting right there in front of me.
I immediately suspected that Hamdah was not going to be a “fan” of me. In fact, I predetermined that she would find me way too “American.” But I noticed she kept making attempts to connect with me throughout that first day. She showed me some photos she shot in class and engaged me in several conversations. “OK,” I thought. “That was cool.” But I was still on guard. The second day she engaged me even more, and I was really touched by her genuine openness—she even laughed at some of my lame jokes.
and we leave it at that…”
I was pleasantly surprised by the acceptance and warmth this local girl was showing me. As excited as I was to be in Dubai, I didn’t expect to be popular there. It’s a very conservative, buttoned-down culture, and I don’t censor myself much nowadays. You either like me and accept me for who I am or you don’t, and we leave it at that. I’m not out to win friends anymore. Those days of people-pleasing are long gone, thank God. But I got the impression that Hamdah sort of understood that about me intuitively, and she accepted me with all my faults and rawness. And jet lag.
But what caught me off-guard about her took place four days later. On the only morning I had off, I desperately needed to go location scouting. I had to shoot that editorial spread for Maniac magazine in a few days, and I really needed to see some locations to get some creative juices going and plot out a shot list. I had eight pages to fill, with no real clue of what I was going to photograph or where I was going to shoot. It was lovely that Maniac’s fashion editor, April Hubai, trusted me so much, but I really did need to prep the shoot thoroughly. Hamdah generously offered to drive me around old Dubai and help me location scout. I accepted, though at the time I don’t think my jet-lagged brain understood her sincerity.
Did I mention my jet lag? It was BRUTAL. I averaged between two and three hours of sleep a night. I would crash around midnight and be wide awake between 2 and 3 in the morning. Of course, the morning Hamdah was supposed to pick me up at 7 a.m., I fell back to sleep around 6. The front desk called me at 7:30 to tell me that Hamdah was waiting for me in the lobby. I was shocked, to be honest. No one in L.A. ever keeps their word. I grabbed a hat (I had terrible bed head, I couldn’t go out looking that wanton!) and ran down to meet her. She had come with a driver and an assistant, and off we went to location scout.
I could hardly believe it: Here was a girl that I thought wouldn’t want to give me the time of day outside of the photography workshop, and not only was she choosing to spend time with me, she was also driving me around in her car, helping me find inspiration for an eight-page editorial. Hamdah was so generous with her time and her spirit. She had a driver, so she sat in the back seat while I sat in the front, and I got to actually SEE Dubai. In the daytime. At my leisure. The Dubai that I wanted to see, not the tourist traps. We talked. I mean really talked. And it turns out there were a lot more similarities than there were differences between the two of us, a young Muslim girl raised in traditional Arabic culture and a seasoned Hollywood fashion photographer who claims no religion. I was completely moved by that morning spent with her, driving around old Dubai and talking about religion, culture, marriage, love. And lo and behold, I not only found my location for the Maniac shoot, I was flooded with inspiration for it!
The whole experience brought to mind a question one of the other workshop students had asked me just days before. “How do you find inspiration?” he’d asked. “How do you keep getting ideas, year after year and shoot after shoot?” I paused for a moment. This question doesn’t have an easy, 1-2-3 answer. I told him that I needed to think about it and that we would continue the discussion over the next two days. A couple of students offered their own thoughts: “Watch the light”, “Music!”. But those weren’t the kind of answers he was looking for. He wanted to know about the creative process, that journey of discovery that wells deep within us and propels us forward to accomplish a shoot that we’re proud of. It’s not an easy thing to explain. That student and I had many conversations over the next several days. He even came to the hotel where David and I were staying, and we all sat up at the pool bar talking about inspiration. The answers came through many discussions. I can’t just give a one-liner on how I get inspired. It’s a process. And it’s organic. There’s no formula, and there are no rules.
The morning I spent with Hamdah is a great example of how inspiration happens, at least for me. Before I met Hamdah I was told so many things, so many warnings about how to treat the veiled women in Dubai. Don’t do this, don’t do that. I was actually nervous about spending time alone with her, yet her ease and genuine kindness spurred me to take a chance and get to know the culture for myself by asking her questions that maybe one wouldn’t normally ask in polite, formal society. And not only was she was open to discussing things with me, she actually encouraged me to ask. Because of this, I was flooded with emotion, ideas, and most of all, openness. And that’s one answer to finding inspiration.
Being open to experiences is what sets us free. And when we are free, we are most creative. I think I’ve said it before, I don’t run around with a point-and-shoot camera when I travel. I live. I take in the moments. I want to meet the local people, I want to see the local places. I want to breathe in as much of the moment as I can. And then…the ideas come. The creative juices start flowing, and soon I’m wading in vast amounts of ideas that I can later translate into images.
Hamdah took me to the Spice Souk in old Dubai. It was a Friday morning and Fridays are their weekend, so most of the shops were closed. But the few that were open were tantalizing to me. Big barrels of spices set out in front of small shops, spices flowing out of the barrels. Reds, yellows, greens, a visual candy store for a visual artist. And the shop owner taking me through every spice he owned, in his broken English. Fantastic! I was allowed to touch the spices, feeling the textures and listening to him explain each barrel. I could smell the frankincense. I could taste the anise seed. I could feel the lavender. It was a sensory delight. And it brought me ideas. I walked around the Souk alone while Hamdah ran to the car to get her camera (ha ha—yeah, I didn’t bring my own). I wanted to just grab a few shots so I could continue to build a shot list back at the hotel. I shot some of the wall textures there. Magnificent pale pink washed-out walls that were naturally water-stained. This was no fancy Hollywood set, this was the real deal.
As we headed back to my hotel, I gathered up the courage to ask Hamdah a question that up until then I’d been too shy to ask: I asked if I could shoot her with my model on Tuesday for the Maniac editorial. In fact, could I shoot her and about five of her veiled friends? I was so nervous asking her, I think I went dizzy for a couple seconds. She answered back: Sure! And not only did she say sure, she photographed her five friends beforehand and sent me their pictures for approval. AND her sister provided the hijabs that the girls wore. AND she organized the girls to arrive at the shoot in the Spice Souk for the following Tuesday. AND they all showed up! On time! All looking gorgeous!
Openness. It’s key to the freedom that is the path to creativity. Uncensored, raw, unapologetic, honest openness. At the end of our shoot, amid the film crew, the mobs of spectators, the wardrobe stylist, hair and makeup people, assistants, equipment all over the place in a public place, I came back to my camera bag and there sat a gift. In glorious wrappings sat the most beautiful incense burner I’ve ever seen. It was from Hamdah.
While we were location scouting at the Spice Souk and the shop owner was describing each spice he had, I began collecting some to take home with me. She asked me if I was using them for cooking. I laughed. Noooooo, I don’t cook. She asked me what I was going to do with them. I sort of looked away, avoiding the subject. I told her I burn them as part of a spiritual way to connect with, you know, God. ; ) I mean, I didn’t want to go there. Religion. Murky subject. Especially since, you know, I was in the Middle East. But I did. I went on to tell her some personal things about myself and my view of spirituality. It opened up a floodgate of communication between the two of us. That experience, that morning, Hamdah and The Spice Souk will remain with me forever. And the incense burner sits proudly in my living room in the center, on a table that holds my precious memories.
Melissa and Hamdah
Oh and yeah, I ended up shooting a pretty damn good editorial that day. ; )
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Ben Mathis
March 26, 2010I can honestly say, after 2 years of following multiple photography blogs, this is the most touching entry I’ve ever read. It’s the kind of stuff you dream about having in your bag of inspiration, as a past happening, and I’m so glad you not only got to experience it for yourself, but that you were able to so eloquently share it with us, your readers.
Can’t wait to see the final result.
Cornelius
March 26, 2010Great report from this trip! Thanks for sharing a bit how you get inspired for your shoots!
cheers from switzerland
Francisque Sanchez
March 26, 2010That is a beautiful and very touching story we’ve got here, I’m glad you shared this wonderful experience with us, it’s a part of your legacy =)
” There’s no formula, and there are no rules “
Inspiration come from everywhere !
That’s always a joy to read you
Flatline from Berlin
March 26, 2010Awesome post. Awesome story. Best part is that you left the hotel without a camera.
Francisque Sanchez
March 26, 2010That is a beautiful and very touching story we’ve got here, I’m glad you shared this wonderful experience with us, it’s a part of your legacy =)
” There’s no formula, and there are no rules ”
Inspiration comes from everywhere !
That’s always a joy to read you
( Sorry if it’s not a correct English =S )
Jamie Harrison
March 26, 2010Great story Melissa. I was in Dubai a couple of years ago and loved the warm welcome from people there. Dubai is one of the most open and westernised Arabic territories and encourages tourism and business from all over the world.
It’s easy to be intimidated by the current propaganda of the media and government concerning Islam, but people are people, whatever their culture and religion with the same intrinisic humanity, hopes, fears and dreams of everyone else.
I’m pleased you had such a great experience there.
Bruno Ázera
March 26, 2010Great story!
Is the Red camera that good?
Carlos
March 26, 2010Despite “not censoring” yourself much, it goes to show how respectful, and considerate you are Melissa. It’s cool to see how down to earth you are in an industry full of big headed photogs and their giant egos. It’s great to hear that your experience was amazing. I’ve been to Dubai back when I was in the U.S. Navy and although I have many recreational photos, I can imagine it being an incredible place to take some amazing fashion photographs. I look forward to seeing the work you did during your trip! Thanks for sharing your experience.
John Waiblinger
March 26, 2010Melissa, this is my favorite blog post, ever (well, for the MOMENT at least, and its inspiring!). Thanks for putting across a real sense of your experience in Dubai and the beauty of how one can find connection in the midst of contradiction … the stuff of inspiration and creativity was just beautiful. The video is awesome – can’t wait to see the rest. Thanks for providing such a great sense of place and sharing who you are.
Karim Parris
March 26, 2010I agree with John. This was my favorite of all of your post. It could have been twice as long and I would still have read it all the way through. I guess this is how inspiration affects what you share with others and now you will surely inspire your readers here as well. It pulled me in and kept me wanting to know more about your trip.
Thanks Melissa!
I love the model’s pose in the above image. Did those birds sign release forms? Yeah, my jokes are more lame than yours
Roger Mann
March 26, 2010I knew it, you’re a cyborg. You’ll need to plug back in now and recharge otherwise your circuits will degrade. Honestly don’t know how you did all that you did. Adrenaline is one thing but it looks like there was something else going on here. One thing’s for sure, here’s an experience which will stay with you for ever. Isn’t it true though that some of the best shoots are born of the most stressful conditions and usually the worse journeys to and from them?
Like everyone else on here I’m grateful for this real-world feedback. For one who works in a bubble this sort of input is a lifeline.
Susan Eckert
March 26, 2010This is a BEAUTIFUL story! You’ve got such a wonderful soul. And such amazing talent to match. David’s a lucky dude!! : )
Rock on! (Oh, and do take care of yourself too.)
Susan
Stevie Roy
March 26, 2010This is great, would love to see more of the shoot Melissa, a;ways like to see what you’re up to….. x from the UK
Jacqueline Kent
March 26, 2010You are a fantastic writer, I could smell the essence of old Dubai, I was there in my minds eye! Great blog!
Looking forward to seeing the Harpers shoot, i keep peaking on the magazine racks looking for the new issue!
Cheers
and thanks for sharing your photo/life experiences.
admin
March 26, 2010Hey guys! Thanks! I’m glad you like the story! Bruno: You know the RED takes some getting used to. I kept wanting to treat it as a still camera. But the images pulled from it were great! I’d love to work with it again. Karim: I didn’t get the birds to sign release forms. Shhhh….. And I’m sure your jokes aren’t “quite” as lame as mine! And Flatline: You’re hilarious! Haha
Michelle Moore
March 26, 2010Wow Melissa, I’m really blown away by your story. I appreciate your open-ness about the harsh realities of traveling, and doing it all. It really means a lot to me, and I love this entry because it comes from your heart. I can’t WAIT to see the images you shot in Dubai, I can only imagine they are completely fabulous
Bryan Lee
March 26, 2010Thank you so much for sharing your experiences in Dubai with us. It’s really nice to see how open dialogue can remove the cultural barriers many of us are afraid of. Like everyone else here, I can’t wait to see the images.
Trevor Lions
March 26, 2010This has got to be one of my favorite stories about inspiration I’ve ever heard. It’s so honest, confronting, and interesting to read.
I don’t know if anyone could REALLY explain how “They get inspiration” But… You did a pretty damn good job at it in this article!
R Reyes
March 26, 2010I’ve been recently following your blog and it keeps getting better and better. This particular post is by far my best read filled with inspiration in many ways aside from photography. Culture is such a touchy subject and I believe you handled yourself politely and respectful.
“Being open to experiences is what sets us free. And when we are free, we are most creative.”
“Openness. It’s key to the freedom that is the path to creativity. Uncensored, raw, unapologetic, honest openness.”
Thank you!!!
Maria~
March 26, 2010How amazing……extraordinary people, in an Exotic land….What a Great experience …. Good Memories to Treasure…. Cant wait to the images….
PM
March 26, 2010Great post Melissa.
I love how honest you were about your experiences with another culture so different than your own. I’m glad Hamdah didn’t give up on you. hehe
Can’t wait to see pictures from the shoots.
Andrew Morales
March 26, 2010Exiting i fell ON dubai !
Ben Olivares
March 26, 2010Great story, inspiration always comes from the live things around you
nicole
March 26, 2010i enjoy every post u write, what an excellent experience to share with everyone. i can’t wait to see the outcome!
karl bratby
March 27, 2010It reads like a book, when do we grt the next installment of the travels of a fashion photographer….awesome read
Nash
March 27, 2010Awesome post Melissa.. as always… cant wait for the BTS video!
Ali Zain
March 27, 2010Amazing report Malissa, It was an amazing workshop you did in Dubai. Hope to see you again in Dubai soon.
Neil Walton
March 27, 2010Having lived abroad for the best part of my life in the middle east and the far east when I was young, you make me want to be back out there,, especially with the openness. Can’t wait to see the editorials!
Eddie Kiplinger
March 27, 2010Fascinating article Melissa!
Antoine James
March 27, 2010in the video, were you using a alien bee strobe to light the model?
Jin N.
March 27, 2010This is such a truly touching and inspirational blog post. I don’t really have a very good understanding of Islam let alone the Middle-East and this blog post has certainly opened my ‘semi-narrow’ mindedness of thinking about the middle-east (especially about the women having to conform so much). It’s good to know that there are still grounded and genuinely nice people out there in the world who, despite their exterior shell, overlook some differences to come together as one. Hamdah has definitely brightened and warmed up the world which I thought was cold and selfish. Moreover, Hamdah is G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S!
Well done for being so well grounded in a new environment despite your jet lag!
hugs and love from New Zealand. xx
Helena
March 27, 2010You have truly outdone yourself once again. :$ I’m spellbound
alan
March 28, 2010What a moving story – I read it twice and I rarely finish reading anything!
I am so glad you couldn’t explain inspiration in one line..
Daniel Meadows Retouching
March 28, 2010Can’t wait to see the finished editorial. A fantastic, touching article. I love this blog
Danny
Thomas Nguyen
March 28, 2010This is a great post. It’s a pretty rare thing for a photographer to be a bit of a wordsmith as well. Thanks for adding me as a contact on Flickr; otherwise, I wouldn’t have found your blog!
Conrad
March 28, 2010That is a really lovely story. It’s amazing just how nice some people are.
Carmen Chan
March 28, 2010melissa, so excited to read this and find out that you had such a positive experience in dubai and that you were so inspired and touched. by the end of your post I had a lump in my throat on the verge of tearing. haha, i’m such a sap. can’t wait to see the images!
Salma Abdulla
March 29, 2010Great story. It’s truly very inspiring. I’ve known Hamdah for about 5 years. She’s an amazing girl both inside and out. Love her <3
I’m glad you liked Dubai.
x
Salma Abdulla
L.Basnight
March 30, 2010This is what great art is made out of! Life experiences! I strongly believe in natural lighting and location. It’s what makes photography unique. I’m an avid reader. Great post!
Mark Dumet
March 30, 2010Beautiful story… So glad you shared this with us!
Benzo Designs
March 30, 2010Melissa,
Thank you for being an open minded person and not being afraid to explore other cultures and societies. It’s so important and such a relief when you hear there are good people like you out there. Inspiring stuff. I really like this post!
Benzo
Fotostudio Duesseldorf
March 30, 2010Greatings from Germany – thanks for the story
Dusty
March 30, 2010This is one of the best blogs! So much more then just “look at my pictures and how cool I am!” There really is a story behind every picture! Thanks Melissa!!
Dandyism Is NOT Dead
March 30, 2010Dubai is so beautiful! Lucky girl! Can’t wait to see the full outcome!
Gerry
March 30, 2010Such a great story, not only about photography but about people. Your work is always full of energy and emotion, you capture that flavor well in your blog.
It’s always a pleasure to read your blog. I learn from you all the time.
Cookie
March 31, 2010WOW, I actaully have tears in my eyes, this story is very moving . I havent even looked for the photos yet. I remember telling SUZ you were in Dubai a couple weeks ago and wondering how it was going. Glad it was such a success. Glad you and David are back safe and sound. thanks for a great blog post !
girl
March 31, 2010i’m a muslim girl with veil from singapore and shoot fashion photography too. hamdah story really touched my heart and proves that religion/wearing veil is not an issue to be in this industry. thank you melissa for sharing this beautiful story.
Mike Wilson
April 1, 2010I’ve only just started reading the blog, but this was a fantastic entry. Really heartfelt and honest. Thank you for sharing that!
I really wish there was more in the video though… is there a longer version? (it says it’s a trailer)
pearl
April 1, 2010This blog is one of my favorite fashion blogs. Btw the straight hair just looks so natural. Love it
Candy
April 1, 2010Love you Meliisa. Those dresses and the places you pick up all my favorite. I love the purple dress one best. Cant’t wait to see the album.
Derek Voneville
April 2, 2010I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve been to Dubai, it’s a wonderful place. You’re so lucky to have had the chance to experience it with a local!
Aysha
April 3, 2010I loved the report! I was unable to book a ticket for the workshop which was so sad, I really wanted to meet you but I was not so lucky, hopefully you’ll be back to Dubai again!
Jerry Avenaim
April 3, 2010What an amazing experience… The photographs look spectacular. But I want to hear more about the RED!!!
Brittany
April 3, 2010I knew I recognized you from a picture on Joey Lawrence’s blog! What an awesome experience!
tachikomatik
April 3, 2010a beautiful story.. thank you for sharing, and look forward to the images.
Sina
April 5, 2010i like to watch your backstage Melissa. Want to see more
Hi from Turkey – istanbul…
Harry
April 7, 2010Hi Melissa, besides the fab shooter & wonderful character:) I wand to thank for sharing your recent experience from Dubai. I LOVE IT!!!
Best wishes!
HL
ken
April 7, 2010Wow..moving story about how people from different cultures can be…well “Human” to each other. If Hamdah comes to the US, I can only hope she’d get the same open arms experience…
Christy
April 12, 2010WOW. I am also a feminist to the core and not a religious person at all and this story actually moved me to tears. What a lovely experience. I could feel the inspiration you were getting just from reading your account of the store and the spices. I have been following your blog for awhile now, and it never ceases to amaze me.
Marlin Woodruff
April 14, 2010I am new to your blog, but I must say this was inspiration and I love how you allowed me in to such a great experience.
Riya
April 23, 2010Wow!..your did a really nice job with these pictures; I love the colors in the backgrounds. My favorite is the pic with the boots in the empty bricked room…very simple, yet powerful! Great work.
Teb
April 25, 2010Very nice article. Enjoy the tutorial. Very exciting to see all of the stuffs behind the shooting. Love your blog
Leah
May 2, 2010Melissa….so touched by that. I’ve spent some time in the middle east and the people are much more open than Americans think they are. Always nice to learn something new and make a connection in the world. You are such an inspiration. Can’t wait to meet you some day!
Mcdull
May 8, 2010thank you for sharing..(^_^)
Ali Taskiran
May 12, 2010I love jelika budimir!!!
Kiyurimyles
July 21, 2010HOW I WISH…I’ve been there in your workshop here in the middle east…hoping someday… again!!!!!!!
Zena
August 3, 2010Amazing entry, thank-you so much for sharing that with us.
Is there somewhere where i could view the turnout??
Usama El Jack
September 25, 2010A bit late to the party… I’ll keep this brief as given the late posting you’re unlikely to even read it.
I applaud you for recognising your unfounded apprehension to a foreign culture and the ignorance upon which it was based. Most people in the world don’t care if someone is American, and suc a self-important and narcissistic perception will only hinder relations and experiences. I hope this experience inpires you to create your own opinions on people rather than following mass media & societal influences on other human beings.
As for inspiration? Life, and all the varying surprises it throws us.
benuriyahmay
October 11, 2010We need to see the Maniac photo’s they sound amazing!!
JS
February 2, 2011Inspiration is hard to find, it’s like writes block sometimes..I just scour all photography, films, e.t.c
fotograf ammaniel
June 3, 2011Thanks for Sharing. Very nice work.
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July 10, 2011I like the valuable information you provide in your articles. I will bookmark your weblog and check again here frequently. I am quite sure I’ll learn many new stuff right here! Good luck for the next!
YSL
December 3, 2011Nice share with us.