Before I begin on what lenses should be used for beauty shooting, let me just point out that I am a Nikon shooter. I started out in 1980 with my dad’s old Canon AE-1 but pretty quickly jumped to a Nikon in about two years. I like the feeling of a Nikon in my hands, but they both are great SLR cameras. I won’t bash Canon because they have great cameras and lenses. But Nikon is my SLR camera system. And I pretty much can guarantee it always will be. And I’m a fairly passionate Nikon enthusiast. I won’t get on forums and fight with other tech freaks on the ol’ Nikon Vs. Canon debate. But I stand pretty firm on them being my SLR, and now DSLR, camera of choice! That said, I only will use Nikkor lenses! I will not put a lesser quality lens on my camera. It is my belief, and from experience, that the camera has little to do with image. But the lens has everything to do with it. Nikkor lenses are top quality lens. And I won’t sacrifice my image quality for a less expensive solution. Also I will admit that I am a huge advocate of fixed lens because of the quality of the glass. I’m not a fan of zoom lens, even though Nikon makes some great ones, and I’ve used them from time to time. However, I don’t own any zoom lenses. I’ve only rented them on the occasion I have felt I needed to “zoom” back and forth. For instance, when I shot a band walking across the street earlier in the year and I had to shoot them 300 times walking back and forth across that street, it was easier for me to capture that with a zoom lens.
For shooting beauty, I choose from the telephoto lenses. One is the 105mm F2 AF DC-Nikkor 1:2 D lens. I’ll use that if I want a bit more in the frame, like her shoulders, part of her arms up around her face, that sort of thing. Actor’s head shots look nice with a 105mm because they’re not “too” tight. If I want something tighter I use the 135mm F2D AF DC-Nikkor 1:2 D lens. I also use, and love, my 85mm F1.4D IF lens. I love this lens because it’s super fast and it allows me to shoot with less light, as you all know I love to do! But I admit I use the 85mm mostly with 3/4 and full length fashion shoots.
Sticking with the telephoto family of lenses is best to do when shooting beauty, head shots and portraits. Anything under an 85mm, like even a standard 50mm lens or the wider 35mm, can tend to distort the face, as I discussed in the previous post on shooting fashion with wide angle lenses. Shooting fashion in a great environment with a wide angle lens is great! But shooting up close on a face with a wide angle lens will make her features look distorted. Her nose, which is usually closest to the lens, will look overly large and unusual on her face.
On the photograph on the top of Ksenia, I shot her with a 135mm Nikkor lens at about f11. I wanted to get in tight on her, so I chose the longer lens. The shot below of Diana, I shot this with a 105mm because originally I wanted to see more of her shoulders, which I did shoot but ended up cropping out in the end.
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Great write up!!
As a Nikon shooter myself (D300), Nikkor Primes are gold! I personally love my 85 f/1.8D lens for doing portrait work.
I’ve been looking towards some older AI era Primes 105mm f/2.5 as a possible addition to the kit.
Some great advice there Melissa!
Do you use a Full Frame or Crop Sensor nikon?
I love my 50mm 1.8, a lot of people knock it but I love it.
Next on this list is the 85mm but with me not using full frame I’m not sure if that’ll be the right thing to do.
Cheers!
Jase
Nikon does have that “feel.” Thanks!
If I could afford to collect anything pricey, it would be lenses. I’d go along with the “nothing under 85mm for portrait” comment and in a big-ish studio that would be my choice.
My favourite lump of glass is a not new AF Nikkor 80-200mm 1:2.8 which is heavier than the D200 it sits on but produces the most gorgeous images - the photographer who sold it to me eternally regrets doing so. I’m experimenting with this lens fully open on around 135mm for some narrow DoF imagery in portraiture which when desaturated looks wonderfully retro.
Telephoto lenses have to be a compromise in quality when stacked against fixed lenses but as you say, if you stick to Nikon then you still have a superb lens. I use the telephoto aspect constantly in fashion and would find it difficult to work without that.
I’ve been following your blog for the latest four or five entrys, and I really must say that I really appreciate you taking the time to write these interesting pieces.
I find it difficult to find other blogs and forums deliver as interesting views on fashion photography as you do.
Just wanted to show you some appreciation!
Best regards
Torbjörn Liljedahl
Sweden
Thanks. Great insight.
Hi Melissa, great info but I think there needs to be some clarification on what Nikon you are using. If you use the D3 or D700 there will be some differences on how the focal lengths will affect those as opposed to the cropped sensor, which probably encompasses the majority of the readers. I am using the D2x and my 50mm 1.4 is almost the same as the 85 on a full frame camera. I have been in shooting situations where I didn’t have enough room to use even the 50 and had to resort to a 15-30 zoom. For the situation it actually worked out well but not as sharp as the primes for sure.
Scott
Great post Melissa, can’t wait to come out to LA. Keep the advice comin!
I LOVE THE COLOR IN THESE PHOTOS……
I HAVE A COPY OF A PHOTO YOU GAVE ME…
FROM THE SAME TIME YOU DID THIS WORK.
AND I TRULY ENJOY THE COLOR ON THAT ONE AS WELL…..
awesome write up!! thanks for sharing. new owner of the d700 and loving every bit of it! thank you again.
In the 80’s and 90’s I shot nothing but Nikon and Hasselblad and yes I do agree that the primes are fantastic (I had (still have but not using) 105mm, 135mm ) for most of my actors headshots and beauty shots and especially the hair ads I shot. But after some 12 years switch to digital and went with Canon. I use their 100mm f/2.8 Macro and 100mm f/2.8 as well as the 85mm. Plus some zooms 75-200mm for one. I find them great. I won’t go into brand wars for lots of reasons, but I do agree a great piece of glass is very important. I use the Canon 5D for the Full Frame feature and that way I know that I’m using my primes exactly as that.
Love the work you do….
Hi! To answer your some of your questions here and in some personal messages sent: I shoot with a Nikon D2X with the s added later through firmware. It is not a full frame sensor. It has a 1.5 cropped sensor. I have learned to adjust the crop I do in camera when I first started using digital, so I haven’t had to worry about the transition from the film camera where it was full frame to the cropped sensor in awhile. So yes, Scott, the focal lengths are different and it does need to be taken into account. Good question, everybody. Hope this clears things up. So far, to my knowledge, NIkon D3 and the D700 are the only full frame Nikon’s out there. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I do find the 50mm too “wide” for beauty, but what the heck! If it works for you, awesome! Like I love to say, there are no “rights” or “wrongs”, although the tech guys would battle me on that. If it works for you, all the better! I’ve shot plenty of fashion with the wide angle and then cropped it up really close in post and used it as a beauty shot. I love happy “mistakes” and of course, breaking the rules!
Oh and Roger…..yeah, that’s a great lens! I must admit! I used to shoot for Australian and German Playboy. I shot the covers with a 300mm lens! I had to use a monopod and have an assistant stand between me and the girl to shout the directions. But the shots were gorgeous! I think a zoom nowadays would work out better! Don’t you??
Great article, Melissa! I, too, own a Nikon and love how it feels in the hands. Nikon has great camera bodies, indeed.
Regards,
Claudiu
Interesting piece you have written here. I just wanted to quickly add that many people, myself included, make the false assumption that it is perfectly okay to use the 50mm lens on a 1.5x or 1.6x crop factor body and have it become a cheap 80mm (1.6x Canon crop) portrait lens.
For fashion/portrait work I have found the 50mm to be really good but once you get up close and personal and start doing more beauty type work and just tight head shots I have found some weird wide angle distortions that I didn’t think would happen with such lens.
The 85mm seems like a good replacement to get rid of the distortion, but on a crop factor body, along with the large minimum focusing distance make it hard to use on a non-full frame body.
/end rant
Hi Melissa. Thanks so much for adding me in flickr. So glad I’ve found your blog! An excellent resource for photographers like myself who are absorbing all the tips and advice they can from the experienced pros. I will be checking in regularly here from now on!
Nice post Melissa.
I saw some good suggestions here.
Just a quick comment for those using the 80-200 or similar zooms.
I love that lens too, especially around the 135mm range for digital with 1.5 crop factor like the D300. But, if you occasionally work with non-professional models like I do, that “cannon” can be intimidating for them. So, sometimes I like it better to use shorter lenses like the 50mm or even the 60mm micro for close-ups, it helps making your model more comfortable and get a more relaxed expression.
Keep up the good work Melissa
Paolo
pfocardi.blogspot.com
I’m a Canon user and I only use prime lenses too. I have more than 10 MF lenses. (I don´t think I really need AF) and one good thing on Canon bodies is the fact I could use old gem lenses as Carl Zeiss, Takumar, Leica and even Nikkor.
I have a rare Helios 85mm f/1.5 that has is own charachter and I love it.
You could see some imagens taken with them on my Flikr gallery.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30466694@N06/
First time on this blog. New to photograhy. Have been reading alot. You are awsome. If you are ever in NY and need an asist, or if you would like for me to fly out to meet you say the word. Thanks for your selflessness!
For a canon user what do you think is the most versatile lens for a 5D focused on more partial to full body shots? I have heard 70-200mm works pretty well. What do you think?
@Paul Takamoto -
I am also Canon shooter, the answer for Your question depend on some environmental issues… If You have large studio, 70-200 f2.8 would do great job for partial & full body shots. If You have not enough space it may be difficult to get full body shot.
Cheers,
awesome! thanks for the write up. it’s good to know a photog is breaking the mold of “OMG, you HAVE to shoot the 50mm f1.4 for portraits” and using primes at other focal lengths.
Honored to have been ask to join your blog, and to view your stunning photography. Your energy and talent blow me away and your advice in this article is consistent with my understanding. I own Canon cameras and lens and your information is relevant to that system as well. I look forward to enjoying your work.
Fantastic blog and gallery… you´re bookmarked
I also own that 105 and is one of my favourites… you should try the 70-200 VR, it has a marvellous bokeh.
i love your work!
I shoot with a D3 and a D700 most of the the time but also have a few D300’s. I love the Nikon 85mm 1.8 and have used and love to play with Sigma 70-200mm F2.8. My over all favourite lens is the Nikon 105mm f2.8
p.s
Love this site
Thank you guys so much for adding me.
I’m a Nikon person myself, and I completely agree - Nikkor primes ROCK!
Another great Nikkor lens for creamy out of focus backgrounds and razor sharp subjects is the 200mm f/2 AF-S VR G lens which easily converts to 300mm f/2.8 with a TC 14 1.4x converter. I also use the 105mm Micro for closeups on lips and eyes.
Hi Melissa,
I use a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 and your post boosted my view that primes are the way to go. Of course I have to move back and forth a lot, but it’s worth it.
I have not noticed distortion with the 50mm on closeups, but will double check this. (I know it is actually 75mm on my DX sensor Nikon) I do run my images through DxO Optics Pro which makes automatic corrections for lens distortion.
Thanks for sharing.
Ciao,
Andy
Very nice site and very nice images.
Just a comment if I may:
“The shot below of Diana, I shot this with a 105mm because originally I wanted to see more of her shoulders, which I did shoot but ended up cropping out in the end.”
I believe this makes the case for a modern zoom lens. It has to do with the last area of complete control we photogs have in this digital age - putting on the sensor exactly what we want at the instant of composing the picture.
Keep in mind that the primary determinants of perspective are distance from the subject and angle of view. The difference between focal lengths from the same distance and angle of view translates into different sizes of the image on the sensor. Nothing else.
If you think of a good telephoto zoom in the range of 70 to 200 as a modern photographic sculping tool that allows you to craft your image by slight zooming and using slight shifts in viewing angle then you will begin to see that fixed focal length lenses are not superior photographic tools.
In fact, the IQ gap between the two types of lenses has practically disappeared; particularly if you abide by one of the golden rules of photography: F8 & Be There!
Your blog is an absolute gold mine! And the fact that you even take the time to come to my blog full of children and senior portraits is just mind blowing to me. I love the art of photography and in my area children, families, seniors, and weddings are what pays the bills. Don’t get me wrong, I love it all, but I hope to delve a lot more in to my personal work upon completion of the studio.
Maybe thus far I’ve assumed that location would hold me back from getting in to some fashion work, knowing that with the family I won’t be moving anytime soon, etc. But to work on what I want personally is more important than whether or not fashion work will ever pay my bills. Your boys collection is so inspiring to me. It makes me want to look for the diamonds in the rough in my area…the ones that aren’t models and/or fashion oriented and portray them in a way that no one would ever expect. And I love the recent video….that you show the simplicity in the set ups. That the sets don’t have to be elaborate…a white wall and a subject with the right lighting is sometimes all you need.
And I love that including you in my inspiration was a big deal to you. With all the other validation and reward that your work must bring you!
Thanks again!
Jess